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Kawasaki 440 jet ski manual download.Jet Ski JS440 Manual
The warning buzzer should sound. If the warning buzzer does not sound, check the power input line page Disconnect the speed sensor 2P yellow connector.
Fit the safety lanyard clip to the base of the engine stop switch. There should be battery voltage. If the wires are OK, replace the combination meter. Remove the wire setting nut, wire holder and the speed sensor. Insert the speed sensor 2P connector through the wire holder hole. Install the wire holder into the hole and tighten it. Align the locating mark on the wire with the wire holder end, install the wire setting nut and tighten it. Connect the speed sensor 2P connector. Install the jet pump page Release the wire bands.
Disconnect the combination meter 8P gray connector. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector. Sorry, cannot submit. Invalid fields exist in below form. If you are currently subscribed, check your email for a secure link. Didn't receive an email from us? We're Sorry. There has been an error. Robert Hernandez Friday, 31 July Hello there, I need to find a Service Manual for my Kawaski js stand up Jet ski, is it possible to get it from you, you can contact me at or sdanimal yahoo. David Sunday, 31 May Any chance to get it form you?
Please send me an email if possible at carboot. If you have any questions, please contact us. E-mail: downloadboatmanuals gmail. Motors Boats. Here you can free download Kawasaki service manuals. Remove the wiring band holding the magneto harness and the engine ground wire. Remove the two bolts securing the magneto connector cap to the electric box. Separate the cap from the box. Be careful not to lose the a. Separate the 6pin connector connecting the magneto wiring cable to the electric box.
I , , , , I , , , , Remove the starter cable from the starter. Loosen the four engine bed bolts. Take out the shims z. The shims must be put back in the same place when the engine is reinstalled, or the drive coupler will not be properly aligned. This can cause excessive vibration and accelerated drive train wear.
Remove the coupling cover bolts and remove the coup- ling cover. Di sassembl V Remove the engine from the hull. Make certain that exhaust manifold, spark plug holes, and any other open- ings are plugged with clean rags and clean any sand, salt, and dirt from the engine. Disconnect the pulse line from the carburetor. On JSA2 and later, remove the two cylinder head nuts holding the carburetor bracket to the head. Remove the cylinder head. Use a soft face mallet to break it loose, if necessary. Optional: Remove the intake manifold 6 bolts and the exhaust mani fold 12 bolts.
Again use a soft face mallet to break them loose if necessary. Break the cylinder loose from the crankcase and raise it about 40 mm. Place clean rags in the crankcase openings to prevent dirt or foreign material from falling into the crankcase.
Lift the cylinder block from the crankcase. Remove the piston circlips and then remove the piston pins, using the piston pin puller PIN T Mark the pistons to identify them as forward and rear. Remove the 2 bolts and ground cable JS44Q-A2 and earlier at the front of the starter. Remove the 4 bolts securing the magneto cover and re- move the magneto cover.
Insert the coupler adapter PIN WQOll into the center of the coupler to protect the crankshaft and remove the coupler with a small 3-jaw gear puller. Take off the housing assembly and gasket. Flatten the tabs on the flywheel nut metal lock washer. Do not strike the flywheel with a hammer as the magnets may be damaged. Remove the 2 screws holding the magneto stator onto the crankcase halves.
Turn the engine upside down and remove the 4 engine mount bolts. Don't mix these boits up with others, as they have a special thread. Remove the engine bed, Remove the two bolts at the rear of the starter and re- move the starter.
Remove the 3 small bolts located two on one side and one on the other side of the magneto housing. Remove the 10 cap nuts bolts on the JSA5 holding the crankcase halves together. Hold the engine by the ends of the crankshaft, and tap lightly on the ends of the crankcase studs with a plastic or leather mallet! Lift the crankshah assembly out of the lower case half.
Using a pair of small long-nose pliers, hold the spring retainer in the connector pin and slide the pin out of the connector. Remove the tube from the wire cable. Remove the grommet cap from the lower crankcase. Apply a little WO-4D to the wires and grommet and carefu lIy remove the grommet from the wires.
Pull the 5 leads through the hole in the lower crankcase. Assembl y Start with the engine clean and dry. If the upper crank- case half studs have been removed. If the brass pulse line fitting was removed from the lower crankcase half, apply silicone sealant and tighten it to 0. If the magneto stator was removed. Apply a little WD40 to grommet plug, then insert the wires through the grommet plug and cap. Lightly grease the grommet with water resistant grease and tighten cap to the crankcase. Pull the wires through the tube.
On JSA3 and later, the tube that covers the wires be tween the grommets must cover the ends of the grom- mets by 10 mm. Finally insert the connector pins into the connector. Pins 1 and 3 are light green charging , pin 4 is red exciter , pin 5 is black ground and pin 6 is gray pulser. Lubricate the crankshaft bearings with engine assembly oil. Using high temperature grease, great the oil seal three oil seals on JSA4A and A5 before instal ling on the crankshaft.
Place the crankshaft assembly in the upper crankcase half, making certain the two bearing stop rings are in their grooves, and that the oil seal locating pin on the center bearing seal fits into the hole in the upper case half.
Note: The crankshaft assembly must not be forced into the crankcase. Place the magneto stator assembly over the end of the crankshaft.
Make sure that mating surfaces of upper and lower crankcase halves are complet ely free of oil or contami - nation. Apply Kawasaki bond to the lower crankcase half mating surface. Install the lower crankcase half onto the upper half. Tighten the 10 cap nuts bolts on the JSA5 to 2. Install the three 6 mm bolts two on one side and one on the other side in the magneto housing and tighten them to 0. On JSA4 and earlier, install the housing and gasket.
Apply Loc-Tite lock'" Seal blue on the 4 bolts and tighten, with flat washers and lock washers, to '. Tighten them evenly to prevent binding. Align the magneto stator as shown here; apply a little silicone sealant to the 2 mounting screws and install them with the flat washers and lockwashers. Make sure the mark on the stator plate lines up with the boss on the paning line of the crankcase, and that the screws are Stlcurely tightened.
If any parts in the piston assemblies require replacement, or if the cylinder is honed or replaced, be sure to check the critical clearance of the new parts against the values given in Service Limits. Lubricate the piston rings and install them on the pis- tons, returning each to its original groove. If new rings are being installed, they may go in eit her groove. Be sure to install the rings with the letter mark facing upward.
Note: JSA4A and earlier models use two flat type rings per piston. The JSA5 uses a single keystone type ring per piston. If both wrist pin circlips were removed from each piston, install new ci rclips on the side of each piston that faces the other piston. New circlips must be used to prevent engine damage. Make sure the arrows on the pistons point toward the. Install the out side circlip in each piston. Oil the main bearings through the holes in the upper crankcase at the transfer cutouts.
Thoroughly oil each cylinder bore. Place a piston sup- port block under each piston and compress the rings with ring compressors. Make certain the rings are in position against the ring stop pins. If the exhaust and intake 'manifold were not removed from the cylinder, the two upper magneto cover bolts must be slipped into their holes from the cylinder rear side of the crankcase flange.
Slip the cylinder over the cylinder studs and carefully down over each piston and rings. Do not force it. Make sure the rings are in their proper positions, Apply a thin coating of silicone sealant to a new head gasket. Do not block any of the holes in the t ead gasket with sealant. On the JSAS, align the tab on the head gasket with the cylinder head water hose fitting.
Install the cylinder head with the water hose fitting pointing forward. Follow t he tightening sequence shown above. Install the woodruff key. Clean all the old oil or grease from tapered portion of the flywheel, threads and washer, then slip the flywheel on and tighten the mounting nut and washer to 16 kgm Ib-ft of torque. Bend up the washer locking tabs.
Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket, apply Loc-Tile Lock 'n Seal blue on the 12 bolts and tighten them to 0. If the water cool ing hose fitting was removed: coat the threads with seal- ant and tighten to 0. Install the intake manifold and 2 gaskets. Apply Loc- Tite Lock 'n Seal bluel to the mounting bolts and tight - en them to 0.
Lealie the upper left-hand bolt loose JSA3 and later use a stud and nutl for later attachment of ground wires. Make sure the D-ring is in good condition, lightly coat it wi th grease and place it on the starter. Mount the start er loosely with 2 small bol ts, 10ckYoGshers, and flat washers at the rear braket; and 2 large bolts, lockwashers, and flat washers on the crankcase flange.
Use LocTite Lock 'n Seal blue on all four bolts. Remember to fasten the battery ground cable to the upper front starter mount oolt JSA2 and earlier. Tighten the front bolts to 1. Tighten the rear bolts to 0. Use Loc- Tite Lock 'n Seal blue on the 4 engine mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts with lockwashers and flat washers to 4. These bolts are a special thread, non ISO and 22 mm. Note: The engine bed's bolt pattern is symmetrical, but it must be installed the proper way.
The bed's right angle moulHing tabs go to the rear coupler end , and the 45 0 splayed tabs go to the Iront magneto end.
Lightly spray the taper with WD, slide the coupler on and tighten the 21 mm bolt and washer to 6. Grease the crankshaft threads and torque the coupler to 2. Coat the magneto cover Oring lightly with water resis- tant grease and install it in the magneto cover. Install the magneto cover and tighten the bolts to 1. Tighten the clamp screw so that the ends of the clamp are 2 to 4 mm apart. On JSA2 and later, remove the two cylinder head nuts numbered 2 and S in the torque sequence to mount the carburetor steady bracket.
Loosen the carburetor bracket nuts bolts on JSAS for correct positioning, then tighten them securely. Torque the two cylinder head nuts to 2. Connect the fuel and pulse lines, and the choke -and throttle cables to the carburetor.
Spray the spark plug threads with WO, and install the plugs. Tight en them to 2. S kg-m 18 Ib-ft of torque. Re-torque the cy. Installation Before reinstalling the engine, inspect the hull and engine compartment for foreign objects and damaged parts.
Clean the bilge filter. Inspect the muffler for visible leaks and proper installation. If the rubber muff ler hold-down straps are checked or cracked, they. Replace them now. The hollow side of the rubber faces forward hole toward engine. Do not fe-use a worn coupling rubber. Install the four engine bed bolts, bu t leave them loose. Starting with the original engine mount shims, check the alignment of the coupler halves by setting a short st raightedge across them.
Misalignment tolerances are as indicated. Slide the engine fight and left until the coupler halves will align with the straightedge on each side of the halves. Use the st raightedge on top of the coupler to check ver tical alignment, and shim the engine bed mounts as necessary. Note: Coupler misalignmenl cannot exceed 0. I " I Use a feeler gauge to check that the gaps between each coup- ler half and coupling rubber do not total more than O.
Off set! No more than 0. This is best done one boh at a time: Remove one, apply the Loc- Tile, and replace it so that the other three bed boils maintain coupler alignment. Tighten the engine bed bolts to 3. Connect the electric box ground wire to the top rear intake manifold bolt JSA3 and later use a stud and nut. Spray with WOAO and tighten to 0. Connect the spark plugs leads. Push the throttle and choke control cables through the carburetor base plate and put on the cable adjuster locknuts with washers.
Fasten the control cables to the carburetor linkage at their connectors, and adjust the cables see Adjustments. Connect the water inlet hose to the exhaust manifold, and tighten its clamp. Connect the starter cable to the starter, and slide the rubber boot over the terminal. If the expansion chamber was disconnected from the ex haust pipe, use a new gasket at the Joint and tighten the two bolts evenly to 1.
Re torque the bolts after the first day's ride, with the eniline cool. The end of the expansion chamber must slip into the resonator with the clamp loosely in place, Put the nuts on the manifold studs, but leave them loose.
Put in the two expansion chamber brace bolts with LocTite Lock 'n Seal blue , leaving them loose as well. Tighten the brace bolts to '. Connect the water hose between the front of the cylin der head and the exhaust pipe, and tighten its clamps. Connect the fuel lines. All fuel lines must be kept clear of engine compOflelllS. Join the 6 pin connector and install the cap with its C'ring greased. Install the band on the wiring harness.
Set the battery in place, and secure the holddemn straps. Con nect the battery ground lead, Apply water resistant grease to the inside of the battery terminal rubber boots, then slide the boots over the battery terminals. Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas which can be lethal. Disconnect the spark plug leads and remove the spark plugs. Remove the fuel tank. Tip the hull on its left side and support it.
Remove the three water intake grate screws and remove the grate. Remove the four jet pump cover screws and remove the cover. Note: JSA3 and later use borts instead of screws. Remove the two water hoses where they attach to the jet pump, taking note of how they are connected.
Remove the four allen bolts hol di ng the jet pump to the hull, and note carefully where the alignment shims go under eacH mounting lug. They must be returned to the same position to properly align the pump with the!
Tap the pump lightly with a mallet, if necessary, and pull it to the rear to remove it. Remove the two allen bolts at the steering nozzle pivots, and remove the steering nozzle.
Remove the four bolts securing the pump outlet to the pump case, and remove the outlet by tapping it with a mallet. Carefully heat the pump case around the bushing and remove the bushing using a twojawed puller and slide hammer. Remove the grease fitting inside the end of the pump case to avoid a hydraulic lock when the pump is installed on the driveshaft. Assembly Cool the bushing in a freezer, and careful1y heat the jet pump case to o F. Apply silicone seal lightly on the pump outlet's mat ing surface.
The water hose fitting on the outlet should be on the same side as the fitting bn the pump case. Tighten the bolts in a cross tightening sequence to 1. I nstall the steer ing nozzle onto the pump case with the two pivot bolts, using LocTite Stud 'n Bear ing Mount red. The nozzle must be installed with its ball joint on the left side, opposite the pump case water hose fittings. Confirm that the nozzle swings smoothly by hand.
Smear a little grease on the bearing surface at the end of the driveshaft. Apply silicone seal ant l iberally around the out side edge Carefully slide the pump case over the shaft and the impeller. Make certain the oil seals are not damaged dur- ing this operation.
Start the four pump mounting bol ts i nto the hull. Be sure to put any alignment shims back on the bolts exactly the way they were originally installed. If the bearings in the holder or the bushing in the case have been changed, the shims may also need to be chang- ed to properly al ign the case with the impeller.
If it J binds, the clearance around the impeller bl ades can be adj usted by changing the shims on the pump case mounting boi lS. There should be an even ai r gap of at least 0. This is best done one mount ing bolt at a time: Remove one, apply the LocTite, and replace it so that the other mount ing bolts maintain pump alignment.
Tighten the mount ing bolts to 2. Apply silicone sealant to the gap between the hull and the edge of the pump intake area as shown. Any clear- ance in this area must be sealed. Remove any excess sealant inside the pump intake where it would disturb the flow of waler. U :n9 Loc-Tite Stud 'n Bearing Mount red on the install it inside the pump outlet and lubri cate wi th water resistant grease until resistance is felt.
Reconnect the steering cable. Reconnect the engine cooling and bilge drain hoses, making sure each is connected to the proper fitting on the jet pump. Make sure there is no pinching of the hoses, or interference when the steering nozzle is pivoted. If the hoses are connected incorrectly, the engine may be seriously damaged from lack of coolant and the boat may submerge when ridden.
Install the pump cover plate with the four screws. Tight en them to 1. Install the grate with the three screws and torque them to 1. Turn the boat upright. Install the battery and spar k plugs, and connect the spark plug leads.
Remove the jet pump Jet Pump Removal. Remove the impell er. Unscrew the impeller from the shaft using a 32 mm wrench or large crescent wrench on the hex portion of the impeller. If the bearing holder is to be disassembled, remove the coupler half whi l e the shaft is still in place. Remove the four bearing holder mounting bolts.
Lightly tap the rear end of the driveshaft with a soft mallet to loosen the bearing holder. Pull the bearing holder and driveshaft forward and out of the hull.
If any shims are present behind the bearing mark their location for reinstallation. Remove the spacer sleeve, and bearing snjm s if fitted. Protect the shaft and support it in a vise. Using a soft mallet, gently t ap the bearing holder off the bearings on the shaft. Do nor tighten the vise excessively. If the bearings are to be replaced, they must be pressed off the shaft, and new ones pressed on. The two oil seals in the bearing holder can be removed with a slide hammer.
The seals must be installed so the sides with springs face rearward. Fill the cavity between the two seals with grease. Grease the bearings thoroughly. Install the shaft and bearings into the bearing holder. Protect the shaft and support it in a vise, using a soft mallet to gently tap the end of the bearing holder over the bearings.
Do not tighten the vise excessively, as the shaft may be damaged. When the bearings are fully seated in the holder, measure distance A, the depth from the end face of the holder to the outer face of the bearing. If di stance A is If it is If the bearings have not been replaced, the original shimming if any can be retained.
Slip the spacer sleeve onto the driveshaft. If the end cover oil seals were removed, grease two new oil seals thoroughly and install them into the bearing holder cover as shown. The sides with springs face forward. Note: The end cover bolt pattern is symmetrical, but the end cover must be installed properly. The coupling cover mounting tab next to the word "made" aligns with the bearing holder grease fitting.
If it is not correctly installed now, you will not be able to install the coupler cover. Coat both mating surfaces with silicone sealant, and install the bearing holder end cover. Tighten the bolts to 1. Pack the bearing holder with grease, using a hand grease gun.
Apply grease only until resistance is felt. Installation Apply si licone sealant to the mounting surface of the bearing holder and slide the holder and driveshaft into place in the hull. Position the grease fitting on the upper right side of the holder. I nstall tHe four bearing holder bolts with lockwashers and ftat washers.
Make sure the lower right bolt also secures the bilge filter clamp. Any shims that were present at disassembly must be reinstalled in the same location. Keep the driveshaft from turning by using the driveshaft holding tool. Grease the driveshaft threads and install the coupler half if it was removed. Tighten it to 2. With the driveshaft still held, grease its threads, and screw the impeller onto the rear end of the shaft.
Tighten it to 0.
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